Notes from the Underground.

Chicago.

Hopefully this is the start of a new trend, which I'd probably never have noticed if John Priske hadn't pointed it out. In the spirit of promoting local eating, the Underground Catering folks are starting up what (with any luck) will be a series of seasonal dinners featuring the best of our local produce. This, the first, is scheduled at John and Dorothy Priske's bed and breakfast to celebrate spring. The menu isn't set yet, but it promises to be excellent.

The chefs have a great reputation from the winter market breakfasts, and are managing to put together a six course meal, complete with a flight of wines matched to each course. I'm almost jealous. It's been a long time since I've undertaken anything near so involved and exciting. At $30 a head for food, plus the optional $25 extra for wine, it's sounding like a steal for a great meal. The L'Etoile experience at a communal table with friends.

And, despite the fact that it's hosted by a beef and pork farm, there'll be a complete vegetarian menu, too. Jonny Hunter assures me it'll be great; not that there are doubts to be had. Of the five cooks, four worked in a vegetarian kitchen before stepping out on their own, and two are vegetarians themselves.

It's also a good excuse to get up to Fountain Prairie Farm, which I'd really love to see. By now, the pasture should be lush, with enough daylight to see everything before dinner starts. It's just a shame that I can't get out, go exploring, and get my mud on my jeans and dirt under my fingernails. Not the best of ideas immediately before a nice dinner.

And, on a related note, Michael Pollan has started a blog at the New York Times. I'm intrigued by his ideas, and more or less agree with everything he has to say. At the very least, it's an informal discussion of the rising movement of local and organic food, by someone who can be considered an expert. We'll see how it pans out over time, but it has plenty of promise.